Shih Tzu puppy care

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Our Chinese Imperial Shih Tzu come in a wide variety of colors. We primarily produce various shades of gold Shih Tzu Dogs, brindle, black Shih Tzu Dogs and silvers in parti (with white) and solids. Other solids include red, white, blue, champagne, chocolate and also come as parti's. Imperial Shih Tzu Adults are under 9 lbs and can be as small as 3 lbs. The average size is 4 - 6 lbs. The Imp is non-shedding and those with an allergy to dogs are usually not affected by this breed.

Our adults are registered with both AKC and NADSR (North American Dog Sports and Registry) We produce our puppies for pet/companionship. If you aren't going to place your dog on the AKC show circuit, registration with NADSR is recommended. They too have conformation and obedience shows for you to participate in. NADSR will register your little one as a separate breed variety, Imperial Shih Tzu. Try to get AKC to do that! Not only will they not, they will have some very unladylike things to call you. I don't know about you but I don't care to deal with that. At NADSR we are recognized and appreciated. When producing little Imp puppies, it is very impressive to see the other Imperials in the pedigree instead of lumped all together and registered as a standard with AKC. I realize its hard for some of you to break off into something new so AKC registrations are occasionally available for an additional fee.

I no longer recommend a particular food for your puppy/dog. It is better to tell you what I do not like to feed. However some good ones are Diamond's Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover's Soul - Puppy Formula, or Royal Canin Baby Dog 30. Nutro Ultra is also a great food. I have recently discovered a brand called Authority. I found it at PetsMart. So many people have never even read the ingredients on the food they feed their dog. It is very important for you to make an informed choice and know WHY you are choosing a particular food. Because your vet said it was good or the TV ad was appealing, is not reason enough. In my research, here are a few things I have read. If you see an ingredient that says just Chicken, that isn't as good as Chicken Meal. Reason is plain chicken has a lot of water so it doesn't contain as many nutrients as chicken meal. Chicken meal simply has the water removed therefore you are giving more actual meat in the same amount. DO NOT feed a meat by-product!! These are products that companies have bypassed. 'by-product' Doubt that is why they call it that but it makes sense to me. Chicken by-products would be the feet, beaks, things that are not fit for human consumption. If one of the first two ingredients is corn meal, cracked corn or any type of corn, do not feed that brand. The first ingredient in a food is the main one, the second ingredient is the second most percentage in the food and so on. You really don't want to load your dog up with corn meal. Science Diet is infamous for doing this!! Granted they fortify the food so the dog maintains well on it, but I prefer the dogs get their nutrients from 'real' food and not a pan of corn bread that has vits and minerals added to it. Vitamin E is great for long haired dogs. Science Diet puppy has 400 IU of vit E...that is great. Most other expensive "top quality" puppy food such as Eukanuba, have around 130 IU of vit E. Good but not great. Chicken Soup for the Puppy Lover's Soul - 300 IU. Authority has 225 IU of E which is also very good. Plus Lamb Meal is their first ingredient, Brewers Rice is the second...not corn. So if your dog likes Authority, that is what I would feed. I just changed food in July 2007 so will let you know how mine do on it in a few months. Whether they will eat it is the most important. All the good ingredients are wonderful but useless if your dog doesn't like the food. So just read the ingredients and work it out with your dog. Also, some shih tzu are sensitive to Brewers Yeast so watch out for that ingredient. Some of mine had their puppy hair to start falling out! Changed to a food without Brewers Yeast and losing their hair stopped immediately. It only did this to two of my puppies so all are not sensitive to it. Regardless of the food, a good supplement of oil-vits-minerals are always recommended especially for long haired dogs. I use NuPro. It is a brown meal looking substance that you sprinkle on the food. They love it and it makes their coat so shiny!! You might have to purchase it online though. Another good sup is made by Missing Link. I'm pretty sure you can purchase that one at PetsMart.

Not all puppies like to eat whole dry kibble. Authority also makes a canned food. Food may be served right from the bag or moistened with warm water, if desired. Young puppies seem to eat more at mealtime if the kibble is softened. Spoiling a baby puppy should be the least of your worries. Getting your puppy to eat is more important than what they eat their first few months. Switching over later on is not a problem. If you find your puppy isn't eating at least 3 times a day. give them 1/4 cup of whole milk a couple of times a day. Eating issues such as the above should only be a problem during the first week your puppy is getting used to being in a new environment. After that, they should be eating dry kibble just fine. However, most imperial shih tzu will NOT have all their puppy teeth in by 8 weeks of age. This variety of shih tzu mature very slowly so you might have to feed them canned food for awhile. Keep them on puppy food until 8 months of age at which time you can switch to adult kibble.

Let your puppy eat as much dry food as he/she wants as often as he/she wants. Always leave dry food down for your puppy. A young puppy will not eat on demand. They eat when they want to so there has to be something down whenever they decide to eat. You can put dry kibble in a baggie and hit it a few times with a hammer. You can leave this down without the worry of it spoiling. During the first few weeks after bringing your puppy home, you might have to feed moist, soft food 3 times a day. Moist food will spoil very quickly so only leave down the broken dry kibble. Start with 2 heaping tablespoons. You can adjust the amount when you see how much your puppy eats at a meal. At 12 weeks of age, you can pick up the water bowl at night to aid in potty training but have dry kibble accessible always until you see a pattern of your puppy's eating habits. Then you can feed your puppy when you know they usually want to eat. Not all dogs require the same type of food so you could find yourself in search of another brand, just make sure you read the labels thoroughly. Please do not feed a food with corn meal as the first ingredient. A dog does not need carbohydrates in their diet anyway.

Diamond: Chicken Soup for Puppy Lover's Soul Ingredients: Chicken, turkey, chicken meal, turkey meal, whole grain brown rice, whole grain white rice, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), oatmeal, potatoes, cracked pearled barley, millet, duck, salmon, egg product, flaxseed, natural chicken flavor, kelp, carrots, peas, apples, dried skim milk, cranberry powder, rosemary extract, parsley flake, potassium chloride, salt, choline chloride, dried chicory root, vitamin E supplement, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate, manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, menadione sodium bisulfite (source of vitamin K activity), riboflavin, vitamin D supplement, folic acid.

If you have to leave your puppy home alone all day, leave 1 cup of dry kibble puppy food (crushed if necessary) down along with a swallow bowl of water while you are gone. Feed softened puppy food before you leave and again when you get home. After a few weeks you can probably eliminate the soft feedings. Keep him in a small enough area so he can easily find his food and water. THEY CAN NOT FIND THEIR WAY THROUGH THE HOUSE TO WHERE HIS FOOD /WATER IS LOCATED. In time they will but at first they need to be secured in a small area when you aren't playing with them. The size of a baby playpen is perfect. They will eat and drink when they want to, not when you want them to. So they need to be able to find their food, water and potty paper very easily.
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For the first several weeks, make sure you do not play (actively running and jumping) with your puppy more than 30 minutes at a time. They MUST get plenty of rest for the first few weeks after you bring your puppy home. NEVER WAKE UP A PUPPY TO PLAY Provide soft toys for your puppy to play with. No button eyes or noses that can be chewed off and swallowed.

Do NOT throw your puppy in the air or move his head quickly in a playful manner. Remember, your puppy is very tiny and should be treated like you would a premature human baby you have just brought home from the hospital. The most common mistake new owners usually make is playing with their puppy too much. Too much activity will deplete their blood sugar!! You could have a very sick puppy on your hands. Be patient. The first few weeks will go by quickly and their playtime will increase. When you see your puppy has fallen asleep, put them in their bed in the 'puppy area' be it baby playpen or similar size area. When they wake up, they will walk to the potty paper and usually tee tee, then go to their food/water and eat/drink. You can not train a puppy to eat when you want them to until they are at least 12 weeks of age. Until then, they must be able to find their food/water when they decide they want it.

Leave down food and water for them during the night. You can not train a puppy to eat when you want them to until they are at least 12 weeks of age. Also, a puppy younger than 12 weeks of age sometimes has a hard time holding it all night long. Have potty paper accessible too. After about 12 weeks of age, you can start putting them in a training crate at night time. No food/water is necessary in this small crate. Take them to potty right before bedtime and first thing in the morning. Now is the time you can start housetraining on a serious note. Never leave your puppy outside by himself.

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Feed puppy a high quality kibble diet. I like lamb or chicken as it is easier for them to digest. If your puppy isn't eating dry food, a good quality canned puppy food would be suggested. See that puppy eats at least every 4 hours. If puppy skips a meal, give 1 tsp or 1" of Nutri-Cal in place of meal. Offer 1/4c whole milk a couple of times a day between meals. Do not let your puppy become chilled or overtired. Provide a quite area for naps throughout the day. Decrease your playtime with the puppy. Their bodies are very small and use up their energy supply rapidly. This can cause sugar depletion or stress induced coccidia. Start giving him 1/2" NutriCal several times a day right after meals for another week.

Anytime you have to take your puppy to a vet for other than routine exams, I ask that you please call and tell me what is going on. I am not a vet, but I have been watching every move your puppy has made since birth and there is a good chance I can help.

Remember, I am always just a phone call away. If you need me, don't hesitate to call anytime of day or night. When you get your puppy, I will also give you my cell number.

There are several things that you should have on hand for your new puppy. It is best to be prepared. Below is a list of items to have on hand, and some things to do that may help you get ready for your new addition:

1. SAFE AREA: Either a baby or puppy playpen or baby gate to partition a small area. It should be large enough to hold a little bed, a play area, small dish for food and water, with enough room left over to relieve themselves if necessary. Puppies can get into lot's of trouble if they are left unsupervised, so it is necessary to put them in a playpen or other small confined area to keep them safe. This is just a temporary place until the puppy is older and doesn't need quite so much sleep, less mischievous and hopefully housebroken!

2. PUPPY PROOF YOUR HOUSE: Just as you would for a child or baby! You need to move all houseplants, electrical cords, household cleaning supplies, or anything else dangerous near floor level that a small puppy could possible chew on or be harmed by.

3. FOOD: It is best to find out ahead of time what brand of dog food that your puppy has been on, so that you may have a bag ready for them. It is best to keep your puppy on the same diet that it is used to so that it will not be subjected to too many changes at once. Changing to a different food can cause an upset stomach or diarrhea. Any switch in diet should be done gradually by mixing the old food with the new food.

4. NUTRI-CAL: This high calorie dietary supplement in a tube (looks like a tube of toothpaste) is a must have if you are bringing home a tiny toy or teacup size dog. It will help keep a tiny dog or puppy from going into hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). It is also a great source of extra vitamins for any size puppy. It will insure that your puppy is getting some good nutrition while it adjusts to it's new home. A small amount should be given every 6-8 hours for the first 7 days, or until your tiny puppy is settled in and eating well.

4. BOTTLED WATER: You will want to give your puppy bottled water for a few days. Start with pure bottled water and gradually mix in your own water over several days time. Water in different places sometimes vary greatly in the amount of minerals and/or chemicals that they use to purify it with and a big change can sometimes cause stomach trouble or loose stools.

5. CHEW TOYS: It is a good idea to have on hand several types of toys and chew toys to help keep your puppy amused and away from things he shouldn't chew on. Young puppies seem to especially like soft stuffed toys to chew on and sleep with. Dogs have a very keen sense of smell, so we always send a soft toy that smells like our home and siblings along with our puppies when they leave. This seems to help their adjustment, and many people say that years later, this is still their dogs favorite toy. It is also a good idea to give your puppy some harder teething bones or toys too. But remember to only purchase toys that are safe for puppies!

6. BEDDING: A small box or washable plastic surface with a baby blanket in it is usually the best type of bed for your puppy at first. These can be easily cleaned and the blankets thrown in the wash in case of accidents. Many puppies are very clean and would never soil in their bed. But most are too young to know the difference between their bed and any other potty spot and can make quite a mess! Cushy foam beds look adorable, but are best bought after your puppy is housebroken and done teething. It is amazing how one little foam bed can generate so much mess when chewed into a thousand pieces by busy teeth! Also stay away from wicker beds, as wicker will splinter when chewed on and can become lethal to a puppy if swallowed.

7. PUPPY PADS: Puppy pads or " Wee wee" pads are good to have on hand for your puppy to relieve themselves on. Since puppies should be kept away from other dogs, and from parks or grass that other dogs have been around until they have finished all their shots (4 months of age), many people are choosing to litter box train their small pups. Most puppies we place have already been started on newspaper training. To litter box train, it is usually easiest to start with a litter box lined with newspaper or piddle pads.

8. BOWLS: You will need a shallow food bowl and a semi-shallow water bowl for your puppy. Do not use a bowl that is deep, especially for water, because it is possible for a small puppy to fall in or even drown. Also they cannot reach if the water or food level gets too low.

Whether picking up your puppy in person or greeting them at the airport, here is a list of a few helpful things to bring with you:

1. It is really better to travel with the puppy in a secure travel crate in case of an accident. The crate your puppy arrives in is yours to keep for car travel and night crating during the housetraining period. Many shih tzu will continue to freely go into the crate to sleep with door left open.
2. Something absorbent such as paper towels in case of car sickness or other mistakes. Moist baby wipes are also great to have on hand for quick clean ups.
3. A soft towel or baby blanket for your puppy to snuggle in. The one in puppy's crate may get soiled.
4. A small bottle of bottled water and a shallow bowl for drinking, in case your puppy gets thirsty.
5. It is best not to feed your puppy any actual dog food just prior to or during your car trip, as this can cause car sickness.

Once you get your puppy home there are some things to know that will help your pup get acclimated:

1. Be courteous! If you receive your puppy by plane, once you get home and settled , please give the breeder a call or email and let them know that your puppy arrived safely. We spend many hours raising these babies as our own children and we really worry about their safety!! Also if you pick them up in person, drop us an e-mail or give us a quick call to let us know how your puppy is getting along.

2. Remember that puppies are still babies and need their rest. Place them in their playpen or crate after 1 hour of play time so they may rest and eat and drink in peace. NEVER WAKE UP A PUPPY TO PLAY! They will wake up on their own when they have had enough rest.

3. Take your puppy to the 'well visit' check up. Hopefully you have scheduled this appointment long before the puppy arrives. You have 24 hours to have your puppy checked out by your own veterinarian and to return it for an exchange if anything serious is found. This is a precautionary physical to make sure that your pup is in good health. Make sure that you take your puppy's shot record with you so your vet will know their medical history. I vaccinate my puppies for parvo, Adenovirus2, distemper, hepatitis and parainfluenza before they leave. You will received a written record of this with your puppy. Puppy will need an 8-in-1 (parvo, distemper, corona, leptospirosis, hepatitis and parainfluenza vaccination no later than 10-12 weeks of age. At 14 - 16 weeks another 8-in-1 plus rabies will be due. Some states require a bordetellosis vaccine also. Check with your veterinarian, follow the schedule they recommend. Remember, until your pups immunizations are complete, make sure to hold your new pup in your lap and keep them away from other dogs and off the floor at the vets. This also means not letting strangers or children pet your puppy. This is how many diseases such as parvo are spread and these diseases can be deadly for your puppy. I use Advantage Flea drops for control of fleas and tapeworms. (Check with your veterinarian)

4.Training should start immediately. However, remember it is sometimes not easy for a puppy younger than 12 weeks of age to 'hold it' all night long. The more time that you spend with your dog, the smarter they will become. NEVER STRIKE OR SCREAM AT YOUR PUPPY. NOR DO YOU SHOVE THEIR NOSE IN THEIR FECES OR URINE. My shih tzu are specifically bred for intelligence and respond very well to a firm NO NO! Shih Tzu can be sensitive. Mistreat them and you could break their spirit. They may never fully trust you again.

5. Set a date to have your pet spayed or neutered. There are many health benefits to spaying and neutering and neutering a male at a young age will eliminate his desire to mark territory and usually prevent leg lifting altogether.

6. Never leave your puppy outside alone! Even if you have a fenced in area. Tiny toy puppies can easily slip through the 2" mesh of a hurricane fence. They have been known to also climb the fence, get their head stuck in the mesh and choke.

7. The most important thing, is just to give your new pet a lot of love and attention. If it is quiet in your home, there is nothing wrong with cuddling your puppy in your lap (with their blanket) while you relax and watch a movie. This can actually be quite comforting to your puppy and help to establish a wonderful bond with you and your puppy that will continue to grow and last forever. And remember to keep in touch, as we enjoy hearing how our babies do and we just love photos!!!

The most important information of all, is that I care about all my babies and was there for their birth, when they opened their eyes, and for their first steps. My voice was the first one that they heard. So I also want to be there for you, too! Feel free to call with a question, share a funny story or just send me a pic! Because I love hearing about how my babies live and grow.

Crude Protein	28%	minimum
Crude Fat	17%	minimum
Crude Fiber	3%	maximum
Moisture	10%	maximum
Sodium	0.3%	maximum
Vitamin E	300 IU/kg	minimum
Selenium	0.4 mg/kg	minimum
Omega-6 Fatty Acids*	3.3%	minimum
Omega-3 Fatty Acids*	0.5%	minimum

PUPPY FORMULA FEEDING GUIDE (Cups/Day)
Weight (lbs.)	6 - 11 Weeks	3 - 4 Months	5 - 7 Months	8 - 12 Months
1 - 5	¹/₂ - 1 ¹/₃	³/₄ - 1 ¹/₄	²/₃ - 1	¹/₂ - ²/₃
5 - 10	1 ¹/₃ - 2 ¹/₄	1 ¹/₄ - 2	1 - 1 ¹/₂	²/₃ - 1 ¹/₄
10 - 20	2 ¹/₄ - 3 ²/₃	2 - 3 ¹/₄	1 ¹/₂ - 2 ¹/₃	1 ¹/₄ - 1 ³/₄
20 - 30	3 ²/₃ - 5	3 ¹/₄ - 4 ¹/₃	2 ¹/₃ - 3	1 ³/₄ - 2 ¹/₂
30 - 40	5 - 6	4 ¹/₃ - 5 ¹/₄	3 - 3 ³/₄	2 ¹/₂ - 3
40 - 60	-	5 ¹/₄ - 7	3 ³/₄ - 5	3 - 4
60 - 80	-	-	5 - 6	4 - 5
80 - 100	-	-	6 - 7 ¹/₄	5 - 5 ²/₃

	Email: Dian Blanchard
	tel/fax: 225-664-2885